Dampers extension — Same thing as spring rate. More in the rear than the front. Try roughly 2 numbers more. Something like 4 in the front and 6 in the rear. The extension is how high the car goes up when hitting a bump or on a turn.
Extension numbers are almost always higher than compression dampers. Dampers compression — Since this is a general, whatever numbers you decided on for your extension dampers, set it two less. So 4 and 6 for the extension were used we will use 2 and 4 for compression. This is how far compressed the suspension will be. Most of the time I set these pretty low.
Anti roll bars — This one is quite tricky. Usually they measure the roll from side to side when going around a corner, but in drifting you are always sideways. Ideally you want to adjust them so your car stays evenly level for the whole corner.
For this quick tutorial I suggest just leave them to whatever they are stock at. Sometimes I move it one up at the front or back and drive around. If I like it better I leave it, but if not I try the opposite. Camber — In GT6 a lot of people are saying camber is broken. I have tried tunes with and without and usually without any camber is best. Sometimes I will add a little bit and it helps even out the tune.
Just leave it zero until the end. Toe — This is the main thing. In GT5 you would need to add a lot and usually always negative. In GT6, much less is needed to drift well. The negative numbers mean the tires stick out and positive means the tires point in. Point in makes the car go in a straight line and stay there. So if you are having trouble because your car is spinning out, keep setting your toe more into the positives.
I usually set positive in the rear and negative in the front. Maybe -5 in the front and 15 in the rear. If the car spins out too much try in the front.
Also, lowering the rear toe into the negatives means the tires will be pointing out making the car hold the drift longer. Usually, it will spin out, which is why most of the time I stay in the positives for the rear. For all these settings the car you pick will be different.
Have to just play around and test what works best for it. This is another tricky one because it is heavily linked to your transmission. It controls how more HP you use at once. Think of it like when you hit the gas, do you want more or less power at that second? Lower HP cars will usually be set higher with higher powered cars set to lower numbers. Obviously, if you have less HP you will want to use as much as you can.
What numbers to use is a thing you need to test yourself. Initial and accel are what matters when getting the power to the ground, while braking is more so only when you brake. Think how to adjust it by hitting the gas and seeing how hard it revs. This one is the toughest of everything and only the most skilled people will get it right. That being said, it is easy to get a feel of how it should be. For a totally general setup I suggest first setting the Top Speed back a few clicks.
Lower HP cars just go all the way to the left while very high HP cars usually go a bit to the right. Transmission Tuner. Other Stuff. Who's granturismosixtunes? The man behind this site is gigliotony. Then ask myself, is the car spinning around slow corners and at take off?
Until wheelspin is nil, then reduce TCS by 1. If still no spin then leave it. You can use TCS to fine tune at this stage. If you want a car that oversteers, reduce TCS a bit from this figure you just reached. On take offs, reduced wheelspin on the spot will increase acceleration. Fine tuning here can see increase tire wear benefits, but remember the more TCS you use the slower the car is, even if you have better tire wear.
Since we have 4 driving wheels, there will always be at least one set of wheels with grip even if the other set is loosing grip. FR cars benefit the most from TCS. I find anything under bhp will not need TCS. The weight of the car will also determine the need for TCS. For heavier cars, start TCS at 3 and tune. You should not need much more than 5, unless you want to conserve more tire wear. Too much TCS and it slows the car's acceleration and reduces understeer. No TCS and it understeers.
Let the driver do that. Your job as tuner is to get the car to be as fast as possible while still being as controllable as possible. Use as little as possible on tracks like Special Stage Route's.
All other tracks, higher front DF reduces understeer. Helps stabilise the car at high speeds. Keep front and rear close to the same figure, with a slightly higher rear downforce. Exceptions for FF cars, where I regularly use max front downforce, with little rear downforce. This helps reduce front understeer and induce rear oversteer.
Only available on 4WDs torque split. That should get you started. Stronger front brake balance causes the front of the car to dip more than the back, that is, more weight transfers to the front wheels. Apart from having greater stopping power, it allows better tire contact to allow the car to steer into the corner while under brakes.
Stronger rear brake balance, will cause the rear wheels to lockup slightly dependant on how strong you set balance when the weight transfers to front during braking. Causing slight oversteer. Not a bad thing, you might want to induce a bit of oversteer in heavily understeering cars.
Too much front brakes and the front tires will lockup, causing severe understeer, which isn't good. And too much rear brakes can cause the back to lockup causing severe oversteer. As you can see there is a cause and effect for each setting. Too much or too little of a setting will cause undesired effects. Too little, and the car doesn't stop fast enough, causing the car to continue it's momentum straight ahead. Set brakes up for maximum stopping power without the front locking up.
Depending on the car's behaviour, you can induce oversteer by setting higher rear brake balance. Finding the figure for maximum brakes just short of lockup will depend on the weight of the car excluding speed and to some extent spring rates. Obviously, a lighter car will reach lockup before a heavier car. OR, you can just use trial and error, watch the screen for smoke from tires during braking in a straight line.
If it smokes up, the wheels have locked up, reduce brake balance. In general, finding the front's lockup threshold is more important than the rear.
So adjust front balance first while keeping the rear brake low. Then adjust rear after you find the maximum braking figure for the front, usually 1 or 2 less than front will be good enough because I'm lazy to repeat it again for rear.
As long as the front doesn't lock up during braking, it won't understeer. Of course you shouldn't be braking while turning into the corner at the same time, that's too late. You should have done the braking before the corner and be at a speed where you can maintain throttle while in the corner and can floor it just after the apex of the corner. Camber is the angle of the wheels in relation to the ground.
The tire's relationship with the road changes as the suspension moves through its travel. Ideally, you want a camber curve that keeps the tire straight up and down when you are driving straight, and leans the tire in slightly 1 to 2 degrees of negative camber during cornering. CENTER When a suspension does not gain camber during deflection, this causes a severe positive camber condition when the car leans during cornering.
This can cause funky handling. Tuning dynamic camber angles is one of the black arts of suspension tuning. Camber allows the weight of the car lean on the outer tires, providing additional contact in a corner. However, on level ground and straights, the more camber you have the less contact surface area the tire has to the road. Thus a negative camber in the front tires is always recommended, and in most situations the front camber value should be higher than the rear.
Rear camber should be as close to Zero or neutral as much as possible. Thus, providing as much grip to the rear as possible. Unless you are tuning to reduce oversteer, then a little negative camber is okay. On oval tracks, the inner wheels will need positive camber and the outer wheels will need negative camber to counter the angle of the track.
Using camber to reduce oversteer and understeer should be treated as a secondary option to adjusting springs and shocks first. Unless you are intentionally tuning for a drift car. RWD recommendations, start at 2. Using more camber than suggested is unnecessary and will result in reduced grip on flat straights and increase tire wear. Note: in the GT6, you can only ever select negative camber values. So when the setup screen says front camber is 2.
Ballast is a specific tuning option. Ballast allows you to add weight to an already light car, with the specific intention of altering the weight balance of the car. This works hand in hand with Weight Balance. Weight Balance is also a specific tuning option and works hand in hand with the Ballast.
After adding Ballast to the car, you are able to adjust the weight balance of the car. You can have either more weight in the front or the rear depending on how the car is behaving. If you find the car oversteering, you could adjust the weight balance towards the rear, giving you more weight in the rear to reduce oversteering.
Likewise, if the car is understeering, move more weight balance towards the front. I will keep gear tuning to a simplified discussion here.
As such we will be using the Auto gear adjustments. With that in mind, tune your gears for each track separately. Using the fastest straight on the particular track as a testing point. If your revs are not reaching the redline at the end of the straight, you can shorten the gears, until you find the revs just reaching the redline.
I find it easiest and quickest to just change the Auto Gears, rather than change the final drive ratio. Changing the final drive ratio does basically the same thing as the auto gear setup, but you could potentially mess up the way the car accelerates if you fiddle with final ratio too much. If you find the gears topping out too quickly on a faster track, just up the auto setting a bit at a time until your top speed just hits the redline.
On some fast tracks like you can increase the auto gears too, since it's top speed you want more than acceleration. If you find that your revs are topping out on long straights, then increase this auto gear a bit more. If, you are not near the redline at the end of the longest straight, then you have increased the auto gear setting too far, reduce it slightly towards the left.
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